We have to leave 100 hooks idle, so each fourth row will be idle or we can make every fourth hook idle. If we want to produce 24 ends/cm, the maximum required hooks will be 24 × 12.5 equals to 300 hooks. So, the size of 400 thread repeats will be 400/32 equals to 12.5 cm. For example, the maximum hooks are 400 and the maximum warp density is 32 ends/cm. However, it is possible to weave design with a less number of ends per centimeter by using casting out.Ĭasting out means to leave selected hooks and harness cords so that they become idle. There is no possibility of weaving a fabric with more ends per centimeter than the harness has. With jacquard shedding, the number of ends per centimeter is determined by harness cords. In tappet and dobby shedding, the number of ends per centimeter can vary. The thread per unit width could be decreased but never increased. Once a comber board is threaded and drilled, the width of fabric and the width of repeat are calculated. While if reed contains 96 ends/inch, there will be 12 holes in each inch of long row, thus giving in total 96 holes/inch in the comber board lengthwise. The number of holes in lengthwise direction of comber board depends on the warp density of cloth being made.įor example, if jacquard machine contains eight needles in the short row, there will be eight holes in the short row of comber board. The number of holes in width of comber board is equal to the number of needles in the short row of jacquard. The reed number must correspond to the number of holes per unit length in the comber board. Comber board made of close-grained wood is a long perforated board extending the width of loom, and the objective of comber board is to spread harness cords uniformly, which determines the warp density in the cloth. One card is used for one pick only, so there are as many cards as many picks in the repeat of design. Pattern card has design holes for needles and peg holes to fix card in exact position and lace holes for joining cards together as you can see fully punched card in Figure 2. A hole in card is responsible to raise warp end and make top shed line, and blank is responsible to lower the warp end and make bottom shed line. Circular holes are punched in the card corresponding to needles. To make design using mechanical jacquard, pattern cards that are punched and laced together according to repeat are used. How to feed design on mechanical jacquard: These are mechanical jacquard and electronic jacquard. There are two main types of jacquard as already discussed in jacquard shedding portion. Jacquard machine is used to produce fancy fabrics like damask, leno, or brocades fabrics. There are no heddle frames used on jacquard, but ends are raised or lowered individually as per requirement in each repeat. Therefore, designs having unlimited repeat pattern like flowers, logos, text, etc. Hooks are used to raise/lower the individual yarns. Contrary to the tappet and dobby shedding, the jacquard system has harness or hook responsible for the shedding. A jacquard loom is the weaving technology to use when wishing to produce greater complexity in the interlocking of warp and weft directional yarns, in terms of: weave architecture combinations single layer fabrics multilayer multilevel wovens (shapes and solid woven fabrications). Jacquard designing is for those patterns having repeat on ends greater than 32 frames. In this article I will discuss about application of computer-aided designing (CAD) in jacquard design. The jacquard design is a unique combination of artwork, weave, and yarn specifications. CAD is used in Jacquard design, editing, creating loom control files, and punching of textile designs. CAD systems have opened lots of new possibilities to designers and development departments, from higher creativity, possibility of fast incorporation of novelties and improvements into their work and higher flexbility for adaptation to constantly and quickly changing fashion trends and market demands, up to more rational and sensible use of time and materials.
#DIGITAL JACQUARD DESIGN SOFTWARE#
Computer Aided Design (CAD) is a software program on the computer that helps designers to create whole garments, design printed patterns for textiles and create specific weave and knit patterns.
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